Iris Troubleshooting Guide
Common Iris Problems (and How to Fix Them)
Bearded Irises are famously tough plants — resilient, drought-tolerant, and well-adapted to a range of conditions. But they’re not invincible. Like all living things, they can succumb to a few common issues. Here’s how to spot the trouble early and what to do about it.
Rot
By far the most common issue. Iris rot typically affects the rhizomes or the base of the leaves, turning them mushy and discoloured. Early signs often appear at the tips of the leaves, which begin browning down to about halfway.
The main cause? Over-care. Despite their delicate flowers, irises prefer a lean, tough love approach — too much water or fertiliser can cause real harm.
What to do:
-
Ensure your soil is well-drained — sandy loam is ideal.
-
Never overwater. Let the soil dry out between waterings.
-
At the first signs of rot, remove soggy or browning leaves and lift the rhizome to expose it to more sun.
-
Keep the area around the plant clear — no weeds, no crowding, no soggy mulch.
-
Reduce humic content and increase sand or grit in the soil.
-
If the plant is struggling in one spot, try relocating it.
-
Always check for soft spots when dividing. Cut away anything mushy and don’t compost the diseased sections.
-
Some growers advocate a light bleach or hydrogen peroxide rinse for affected rhizomes. Personally, I don’t — sun and airflow are often better healers.
Fungal Spots
These appear as small brown markings along the length of the leaf and are often related to poor air circulation or wet conditions.
What to do:
-
Improve drainage and spacing.
-
Remove dead or damaged foliage.
-
Organic antifungal sprays are available, or you can make your own using diluted milk (1:5 or 1:10) with a small amount of baking soda.
Snails and Slugs
These sneaky pests love to hide at the base of iris fans or just beneath the surface mulch, emerging at night to feast.
What to do:
-
Beer traps work brilliantly.
-
My ducks and chickens love them too — raw or... marinated.
-
If needed, use an iron-based eco snail bait (safe for pets and wildlife). Only use it sparingly and never the old-school toxic types.
Pineappling
This strange condition causes distorted growth — leaves barely form, and flowers emerge almost directly from the base with no stalk.
Why it happens:
No one’s completely sure. It’s likely linked to physical injury or erratic weather patterns. The good news? Most plants recover. Even if the “mother” rhizome is affected, offsets (“pups”) usually grow normally under improved conditions.
Not Flowering
One of the most common frustrations — lush green leaves but no blooms.
Possible causes:
-
Overcrowding: Time to divide and replant.
-
Too much fertiliser: Especially nitrogen. This leads to foliage at the expense of flowers.
-
Too much shade: Iris need at least 6 hours of direct sun.
-
The variety itself: Some cultivars — especially blacks and near-blacks — can be shy bloomers. We’ve tried to limit our TenAcres selection to reliable performers, but some divas remain.
Failure to Thrive
Sometimes a plant just doesn’t flourish. It might sit stubbornly in the ground, doing very little at all.
Troubleshooting steps:
-
Apply a mineral-based fertiliser with trace elements.
-
Test your soil pH — conflicting sources recommend either slightly acidic or slightly alkaline conditions. What matters is balance and avoiding extremes.
-
Consider relocating the plant if all else fails.
Yes, this list might sound long — but don’t be discouraged. Bearded Iris truly are among the hardiest, most forgiving plants you can grow. With just a little understanding and the right care, they’ll reward you for years to come.
Share